Pigeon Spire Bugaboos 11-13 July 2021

My first time visiting the Bugs! Our original (bold) itinerary was hike in on the 11th, maybe do Eastpost spire, which is the short scramble easily accessed from Applebee Dome camp, then do both Pigeon and Bugaboo via Kain route on the second day, and finish off with something on Crescent Towers like Lion's Way. Boy, were we over-confident. We were a group of 4 - Marty and I would climb together and a friend from work and his friend would be a team. This worked pretty well.  

The day-by-day

We left Banff at around 8 in the morning in one car, so as not to beat up two cars on the road into the Bugaboos. The grand caravan did great! Yes it was slow going but we made it just fine. The drive to the trailhead was about 3 hours. There is a great map of the maze of logging roads, and the right one to take, in the slightly old but very useful Bugaboos guide book by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche. 

After parking and immediately putting on bug repellant, we porcupine-proofed the car with the chicken wire, sticks and rock provided. It was a hot day and after an hour, we emerged from the cool forest into the the exposed, sultry grassy switchbacks that lead up to the chains and ladders, just below the Conrad Kain hut. I was dunking my hat in the waterfall as we trudged. At the hut we paid our $10/night/person camping fee and headed on up to the campground - another hour. It took 3 hours with overnight packs and climbing gear from the car to camp. Not bad, but still draining in this heat (35 Celsius). 

To be fit and fresh for tomorrow, we pulled out of doing Eastpost spire. Dinner and bed.

Sunrise from the top of Bugaboo/Snowpatch (BS) Col.

From what I'd been told and just like everywhere else this summer, the Bugaboos were super dry - like late August conditions. The hut warden was saying the campground is typically still semi snow-covered at this time of year.  If you don't believe in climate change, this is what happens, a little less every year, until the glaciers are gone for good. 

The BS col at first light.

Anyways, we started at 5:20, delayed by a water mishap. FYI, the lake might freeze overnight, barring the water supply through the tap at camp. There was stream down and right, towards Eastpost that still had flowing water. The col was a steep snow climb, but not technical. Nothing a few good switchbacks can't handle. There is an open hole in the bergschrund that has to be navigated, but it's done so with ease. Once breaching the snow and you transfer onto rock, there is a huge boulder immediately at your left. At head-height there should be a rappel anchor. You may have noticed some of the lower stations as you climbed. This one is crucial though. Note it for the descent. It was 7:30am at this point. Here we geared up and zoomed across Upper Vowell glacier, towards Pigeon. 

The starting point is the furthest away, naturally.

In the process of exiting off the glacier, right over top of a somewhat large opening to the bergschrund, my feet collapsed underneath me and all of a sudden I'm lying on my back like a stunned tortoise. I had stepped directly where Marty, a large man, has stepped just moments before me, but still fell through. With the help of Luca, my buddy from work, I clawed my way up the soft snow and out. It was only maybe 2m drop onto a solid snow floor, but it could have been worse - not to mention Marty was perched with just his front points in ice. After that excitement, we got on the rock and had a short snack break and to switch from glacier to climbing gear. 

The scrambling begins! I lead on the way up. Feels so good be on granite. 

We began ascending at 8:30am. We went 2 teams of 2 roped together with about 12m between us. I liked this, as some of the moves are exposed or committing. Or both. Luca and Barry were ahead. I found the hardest scrambling move was in the first 30m. Somewhat of a relief. 

Descending a cool slabby section from the first summit, with 2nd summit in view. Highlighted green line is the 'au cheval' section. 

Getting down from 2nd summit, was the only route-finding difficulty we ran into. A steep drop with a few cracks is the most obvious option, but if you go back around the big block and head to the left of it, there's a more manageable gully that brings you to the base of the steep part. Ascending this steep wall is fun on the way back though!

Then it's a bit of a mess from here. I just took a chance and followed the path of least resistance. Once getting onto the flat between 2nd and 3rd summits, you'll traverse and rock hop, skirting the left of 3rd summit. It's not obvious, but a broken steppy gully leads the way to the 5.4 and final pitch of the route. Look for whiter granite crystals on the rock, rubbed clean from hands and shoes. 

What I'm pretty sure is the 5.4 pitch, follows a series of diagonal cracks up a pretty low angle but high consequence slab. You'll want to stack all the rope for feeding - it's 30m+ onto the summit. We made the mistake of not, so I ran out of rope just 4m from the top. The line wraps left and up a chunky chimney. 

I say 'pretty sure' because Luca and Barry took a complete different line that popped up on the other side of the summit to us. I guess it's a choose your own adventure. We reached the summit at 10:15am, which realistically was too late for Bugaboo to even be a potential. So we skedaddled. 

Marty rappelling from the summit, with the magnificent Bugaboo spire behind. 

The way down was a little thought-provoking, particularly fear thoughts. I guess it's the added spice of now constantly looking down at your path, and seeing the drop down to the glacier below. So the descent took a little longer than anticipated.

Marty leading back across 'au cheval', with Howser Towers looking sexy in the back. I used to be against calling mountains sexy; how discriminatory I was. This was taken at 12:30pm - we were slow.

Down scrambling. Thank you granite for being so grippy.

Upon arriving back at the beginning of Pigeon West ridge, we remembered the toilet! So we had to check it out.

Loo with maybe the best ever view.

Since Bugaboo was out of question, we moseyed back across the glacier, making a detour to inspect the 'Pigeon Toe'. On here is a not-well-known 5.something 3p climb. Looked somewhat intriguing. I know nothing of the descent.

Marty and I arrived back to camp wet and tired, after a snowball fight at the base of the col, and a big successful day. We all brainstormed about what to do tomorrow and what time we'd like to be leaving by. Lion's Way was quickly eliminated when Luca realised he wouldn't have enough gear for a full trad route. So Eastpost in the morning it was.

Initially we got pretty confused on where to start Eastpost. The book says to begin on the far left where the ridge starts. But that brought the guys to a dead end. I never saw it because I discovered I'd left my helmet back in the tent. I could've sworn I put it in when packing my bag the night before - because I did, Marty had pulled it out looking for something. No matter, when I got back they had gotten back on route. The wide, fanning, loose gully seen from camp is the way. From there it took us 45 mins to top out. Cairns lead a clearly defined line, with the trickiest bit at the very end. A rope is ideal to get back down this 20m section. 

Typical terrain on Eastpost spire. A very enjoyable scramble I thought, and a big reward for such little effort. 

We packed up and hiked out soon after. It was still hot so getting into the trees again felt great. Back at the carpark we rushed to dismantle the porcupine-proofing and get going back home (to food first). We were recommended Leo Burrito in Radium, so we swung by and grabbed the door handle but it was locked because they're closed only on Tuesdays. Heartbreak! Subway was the next best. It was that hot we started looking up lakes in swim in, and came across Olive Lake. Right on the highway, the clear teal water was cold but so incredibly refreshing. Felt a whole lot better after that. Great trip!

Neil Colgan hut 4-7 July/21

 The Neil Colgan hut, perched on the col between Mts Little and Bowlen, is a stunning destination for climbers, skiers, and those in search of bigger objectives. Being sandwiched between glaciers Fay and Tonsa makes for an exciting multi-sport approach.

A view from Mt Bowlen of the hut with Mt Little towering over from behind.

With a trip planned for nights of the 4th, 5th and 6th of July 2021, we were somewhat worried about the extent of potential snow coverage. However, in the week leading up, western Canada achieved (?) record temperature highs of up to 49°C. Nuts. Good for us though. Beta showed the route was dry. The four of us studied the forecast rigorously in the days leading up. It did not look great. We were threatened with some rain and storms. It is the mountains though; it could go either way, right? Gullible is the hopeful.

Approach

We left the Moraine Lake parking lot at 9:30am and sped to the back of the lake to get a good head start on the weather. To our demise, it would be. As we searched for the cable and log crossing 30m from the end of the boardwalk, the rain and thunder began. Looks like today wouldn't work out. Phil got the idea to at least try the crossing so that tomorrow we would be more efficient. Unsuccessful - he narrowly escaped a chilly dip.

The water level was very high at this time of year, after the heat wave, accented by recent rain. A mid-thigh high rooster tail guarded the final log and the other side. As we sat and debated other strategies, the rain petered out, and gave way to a brilliant, blue, hope filled sky. Marty bravely tackled the crossing next, barefoot and pack-laden. He made it safely, after which we all followed suit. Cold feet! I'd recommend going barefoot, as it's nice to feel your way along the gnarls and unevenness. 

Me crossing the final logstacle.

By now it was 12:30pm and we'd lost quite a bit of time. But the weather was great. So we continued on the trail through the short forested section to the boulder field and first scree slope. Cairns lead a few ways through the boulder field but as long you head to the general left of the slope you'll eventually find the path that climbs windingly up the scree. Feet of lead in this section.

After an hour or so, we reached a trickling waterfall, at which we followed the trail up and left, bringing us to a short but steep step up through a shallow ledgey chimney. This was easily managed with packs on, as it quickly flattens out. The rappel through this section is optional – it starts a few metres lookers left of the climbing gully, in the next one over. There is a bolt, piton and cord. We opted to use the rope to get down here; better safe than sorry!

 

The waterfall. I think it’s a constant little trickle that’s glacier melt run-off.

Some switchbacks through green ledges decorated with delightful wildflowers leads you up to a rocky gully fixed with handlines. We were surprised to find this, as it’s not mentioned in the book or the ACC approach description document. No matter, it was smooth, the hardware and rope is in good condition. Exit climbers left from the gully then wrap around to the trail which continues right.

The gang coming up the gully with the fixed ropes.

 

The sky had clouded over with some light, non-threatening clouds at this point. Gullible is the hopeful!!! After more light scrambling over ledges and up a loose slope, we arrived at the first proper climbing pitch. Defined by a large corner, with, when we were there, a waterfall that passes down the inside left face of the large corner, the start of the climb is the trickiest but completely manageable in mountaineering boots. This is where our leader got lost, as it makes sense to continue up straight, but through steeper terrain. There was a detached block that could be stood on, which will position you 2m below the anchor. Whereas other resources say to cut hard climbers left once on the ledge, contouring behind a block and towards where the water is feeding from. Look up and you’ll see a lone bolt just before a grassy/dirty ledge. To the right of this is where the anchor is. This option is less enjoyable for the second.

First picture courtesy of Jeremy Pulsar from the Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies facebook group, in addition with my beautiful dot edits. Red is my recommended route, blue is the round-about way with the single bolt. Roughly. Second is from the anchor, looking down at Laurie leading up what would be the red route, standing on the same detached block.

 

In the distance, after ~45mins of more flowery steps and switchbacks, there will be a large steep cliff band with a dramatic corner far lookers left. The infamous chain pitch scales half of this wall. The clouds above looked a little more burdensome and dark as we approached the route. I dumped my pack, donned my rock shoes and began leading up. Admittedly, I thought the climbing was great fun. Solid moves on positive holds, spiced with a quirky mantling of a freestanding flake. That was until the rain started. I kept looking over my shoulder in fear, seeing the curtain of rain flow straight towards us. It was like trying to climb fast because a big monster was chasing me. Thrilling no doubt. It hit around halfway up the pitch, and once at the anchor, we all decided I should wait it out because we could see the light at the end of the (rain) tunnel. So there I sat, 5pm, in my sodden Proton LT, attached to a metal anchor, while lightning stuck around me. I couldn’t help but laugh, after it was over, at the fact that my first alpine rock lead was in a dang lightning storm. Anyways, we waited a while for the rock to dry up (which it did rapidly) and then sailed the traverse qpitch. Quite pleasant, protected by around 5 pitons short walk along the same band as the previous pitch takes you to a somewhat smooth runnel/gully marked by a cairn. The left side of this has a bolt to protect the trickiest move. I didn’t find any acceptable gear before or after this, however you cut right around a large outcrop so that acts as protection anyways.

An estimated line of each pitch; they are very obvious though so route-finding shouldn’t be an issue. Dotted is the walk between traverse and final pitch. Sweet shot of Phil and Laurie making the traverse pitch look smooth.

A short step over the lip, then it was on to the glacier. It was also about 8:30pm. Where the heck did the time go?! It was shocking (to me) how much exposed glacier ice there was, especially for early July. Marty was in front and found a few crevasses wide enough to fit him up to his hip. Also being so late did not help. Eventually we made it through the worst section and were contouring Mt Little, when the hut came into view. I was so relieved. Against what felt like so many odds we had made it. This is also my first ever ACC hut stay so it was more than luxurious to crawl into a proper bed that night, after a nice warm spaghetti dinner.

The day-by-day

The morning after our late arrival, we slept in until around 8am. We only ventured out onto Fay glacier at around 11am, en route to Mount Babel. Babel can be pronounced as ‘Babbel’ or ‘Baybel’ - it’s just the difference of American and British english. By doing this first, we also got to scope out the west ridge route of Mount Fay. Frankly it looked pretty poor. A part of the bergschrund looked as though it had recently collapsed, so there was no simple crossing. We didn’t go up close to really inspect it, but I would assume that to get onto the route, you would have to lower down into it, then climb/somehow get back out. And then there was the actual route. With no snow left on the slop it was bare ice and in our short passings by, there was a significant amount of rockfall. Needless to say, we opted to not do it. In the log book back at the hut, there is an epic recount of two blokes skiing one of the chutes off Fay, I believe the one in between the central ice bulge and the west ridge lines. Wild!

Green arrow marks the west ridge route on Fay. Close up of the hectic schrund.

Anyways, Babel went smoothly. There is a rough trail to the top but it’s really not difficult to navigate, just hug the ridge, then cut left, winding upwards, when it becomes too steep. Got rained on, after descending back onto the glacier.

Mount Babel on the left.

That afternoon we went up Mount Bowlen, which is the righthand peak when viewing the hut from Fay glacier. An impressive peak from down at the lake, it is only a half hour stroll from the hut. There is a pleasant trail that is found if you head up the first obviously travelled gully. Pick it up after a while on the left. Got rained on here too.

Route up Mt Bowlen as viewed from the hut balcony. 

Having the hut fully equipped with a propane stove is such a luxury. Fast snow melting and water curing, you can have more interesting meals than freeze-dried bags (no offence), and being able to wash the sunscreen off after the days makes for a more restful slumber. My partner and I had spaghetti, mac ’n’ cheese and a freeze-dried meal for dinners, wraps for lunch and oatmeal for brekky. The more I eat this oatmeal mix the less I like it. So globby. Must seize the opportunity to have (if ever so slightly) more lavish meals!

Also noteworthy, is 3/4 bump that is right beside 3/4 couloir. Gives great views of nearby peaks, the valley and the top of 3/4 couloir. Eep!

That evening, since being deterred from Fay, we ummed and ahhed about tomorrow’s objective. Allan was on the cards for a big day and big summit, but since we hadn’t planned for it, we had little info about it. The leftward contour across a rock band to reach the scramble seemed pretty intimidating. The next morning we woke up early and headed over to do Mount Perren. The snow climb up to the ridge still had perfect coverage. From there, the scramble section doesn’t take long at all. If you follow the ridge proper, you will encounter more difficult terrain, but there is a discernible trail that skirts the left below the ridge, where you’ll only come across a very short 4th class step. Fantastic view from this peak. Coming down the snow slope was where the most thrill was had; attempting to glissade for the first time. It was fast! And fun. With no real danger if we lost control, it was good practice for a quick self-arrest. 

Route to the summit of Perren, with the snow slope. Allan behind.

That evening we went up Mount Little. Route finding was somewhat challenging – take the time to investigate all potential ways and search for faint trails in dirt or rubble. That being mentioned, it is a loose scramble. I didn’t go all the way to the top, when a very crumbly section on the edge of a teeteringly steep drop off guarded the way. Phil continued past this point for 2 minutes more to the summit. 

Our approximate line up Mt. Little. Notorious Little looseness. 

Then it was home time. A clear morning made us confident maybe we wouldn’t get the storm that was in the forecast. The descent was straight forward, took around 5 hours to get down. Then after an Eddie burger for dinner, we sat in the park, beers, picnic blanket, slack-line set up, then we got hailed on.