My first time visiting the Bugs! Our original (bold) itinerary was hike in on the 11th, maybe do Eastpost spire, which is the short scramble easily accessed from Applebee Dome camp, then do both Pigeon and Bugaboo via Kain route on the second day, and finish off with something on Crescent Towers like Lion's Way. Boy, were we over-confident. We were a group of 4 - Marty and I would climb together and a friend from work and his friend would be a team. This worked pretty well.
The day-by-day
We left Banff at around 8 in the morning in one car, so as not to beat up two cars on the road into the Bugaboos. The grand caravan did great! Yes it was slow going but we made it just fine. The drive to the trailhead was about 3 hours. There is a great map of the maze of logging roads, and the right one to take, in the slightly old but very useful Bugaboos guide book by Chris Atkinson and Marc Piche.
After parking and immediately putting on bug repellant, we porcupine-proofed the car with the chicken wire, sticks and rock provided. It was a hot day and after an hour, we emerged from the cool forest into the the exposed, sultry grassy switchbacks that lead up to the chains and ladders, just below the Conrad Kain hut. I was dunking my hat in the waterfall as we trudged. At the hut we paid our $10/night/person camping fee and headed on up to the campground - another hour. It took 3 hours with overnight packs and climbing gear from the car to camp. Not bad, but still draining in this heat (35 Celsius).
To be fit and fresh for tomorrow, we pulled out of doing Eastpost spire. Dinner and bed.
Sunrise from the top of Bugaboo/Snowpatch (BS) Col.
From what I'd been told and just like everywhere else this summer, the Bugaboos were super dry - like late August conditions. The hut warden was saying the campground is typically still semi snow-covered at this time of year. If you don't believe in climate change, this is what happens, a little less every year, until the glaciers are gone for good.
The BS col at first light.
Anyways, we started at 5:20, delayed by a water mishap. FYI, the lake might freeze overnight, barring the water supply through the tap at camp. There was stream down and right, towards Eastpost that still had flowing water. The col was a steep snow climb, but not technical. Nothing a few good switchbacks can't handle. There is an open hole in the bergschrund that has to be navigated, but it's done so with ease. Once breaching the snow and you transfer onto rock, there is a huge boulder immediately at your left. At head-height there should be a rappel anchor. You may have noticed some of the lower stations as you climbed. This one is crucial though. Note it for the descent. It was 7:30am at this point. Here we geared up and zoomed across Upper Vowell glacier, towards Pigeon.
The starting point is the furthest away, naturally.
In the process of exiting off the glacier, right over top of a somewhat large opening to the bergschrund, my feet collapsed underneath me and all of a sudden I'm lying on my back like a stunned tortoise. I had stepped directly where Marty, a large man, has stepped just moments before me, but still fell through. With the help of Luca, my buddy from work, I clawed my way up the soft snow and out. It was only maybe 2m drop onto a solid snow floor, but it could have been worse - not to mention Marty was perched with just his front points in ice. After that excitement, we got on the rock and had a short snack break and to switch from glacier to climbing gear.
The scrambling begins! I lead on the way up. Feels so good be on granite.
We began ascending at 8:30am. We went 2 teams of 2 roped together with about 12m between us. I liked this, as some of the moves are exposed or committing. Or both. Luca and Barry were ahead. I found the hardest scrambling move was in the first 30m. Somewhat of a relief.
Descending a cool slabby section from the first summit, with 2nd summit in view. Highlighted green line is the 'au cheval' section.
Getting down from 2nd summit, was the only route-finding difficulty we ran into. A steep drop with a few cracks is the most obvious option, but if you go back around the big block and head to the left of it, there's a more manageable gully that brings you to the base of the steep part. Ascending this steep wall is fun on the way back though!
Then it's a bit of a mess from here. I just took a chance and followed the path of least resistance. Once getting onto the flat between 2nd and 3rd summits, you'll traverse and rock hop, skirting the left of 3rd summit. It's not obvious, but a broken steppy gully leads the way to the 5.4 and final pitch of the route. Look for whiter granite crystals on the rock, rubbed clean from hands and shoes.
What I'm pretty sure is the 5.4 pitch, follows a series of diagonal cracks up a pretty low angle but high consequence slab. You'll want to stack all the rope for feeding - it's 30m+ onto the summit. We made the mistake of not, so I ran out of rope just 4m from the top. The line wraps left and up a chunky chimney.
I say 'pretty sure' because Luca and Barry took a complete different line that popped up on the other side of the summit to us. I guess it's a choose your own adventure. We reached the summit at 10:15am, which realistically was too late for Bugaboo to even be a potential. So we skedaddled.
Marty rappelling from the summit, with the magnificent Bugaboo spire behind.
The way down was a little thought-provoking, particularly fear thoughts. I guess it's the added spice of now constantly looking down at your path, and seeing the drop down to the glacier below. So the descent took a little longer than anticipated.
Marty leading back across 'au cheval', with Howser Towers looking sexy in the back. I used to be against calling mountains sexy; how discriminatory I was. This was taken at 12:30pm - we were slow.
Down scrambling. Thank you granite for being so grippy.
Upon arriving back at the beginning of Pigeon West ridge, we remembered the toilet! So we had to check it out.
Loo with maybe the best ever view.
Since Bugaboo was out of question, we moseyed back across the glacier, making a detour to inspect the 'Pigeon Toe'. On here is a not-well-known 5.something 3p climb. Looked somewhat intriguing. I know nothing of the descent.
Marty and I arrived back to camp wet and tired, after a snowball fight at the base of the col, and a big successful day. We all brainstormed about what to do tomorrow and what time we'd like to be leaving by. Lion's Way was quickly eliminated when Luca realised he wouldn't have enough gear for a full trad route. So Eastpost in the morning it was.
Initially we got pretty confused on where to start Eastpost. The book says to begin on the far left where the ridge starts. But that brought the guys to a dead end. I never saw it because I discovered I'd left my helmet back in the tent. I could've sworn I put it in when packing my bag the night before - because I did, Marty had pulled it out looking for something. No matter, when I got back they had gotten back on route. The wide, fanning, loose gully seen from camp is the way. From there it took us 45 mins to top out. Cairns lead a clearly defined line, with the trickiest bit at the very end. A rope is ideal to get back down this 20m section.
Typical terrain on Eastpost spire. A very enjoyable scramble I thought, and a big reward for such little effort.
We packed up and hiked out soon after. It was still hot so getting into the trees again felt great. Back at the carpark we rushed to dismantle the porcupine-proofing and get going back home (to food first). We were recommended Leo Burrito in Radium, so we swung by and grabbed the door handle but it was locked because they're closed only on Tuesdays. Heartbreak! Subway was the next best. It was that hot we started looking up lakes in swim in, and came across Olive Lake. Right on the highway, the clear teal water was cold but so incredibly refreshing. Felt a whole lot better after that. Great trip!
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