Neil Colgan hut 4-7 July/21

 The Neil Colgan hut, perched on the col between Mts Little and Bowlen, is a stunning destination for climbers, skiers, and those in search of bigger objectives. Being sandwiched between glaciers Fay and Tonsa makes for an exciting multi-sport approach.

A view from Mt Bowlen of the hut with Mt Little towering over from behind.

With a trip planned for nights of the 4th, 5th and 6th of July 2021, we were somewhat worried about the extent of potential snow coverage. However, in the week leading up, western Canada achieved (?) record temperature highs of up to 49°C. Nuts. Good for us though. Beta showed the route was dry. The four of us studied the forecast rigorously in the days leading up. It did not look great. We were threatened with some rain and storms. It is the mountains though; it could go either way, right? Gullible is the hopeful.

Approach

We left the Moraine Lake parking lot at 9:30am and sped to the back of the lake to get a good head start on the weather. To our demise, it would be. As we searched for the cable and log crossing 30m from the end of the boardwalk, the rain and thunder began. Looks like today wouldn't work out. Phil got the idea to at least try the crossing so that tomorrow we would be more efficient. Unsuccessful - he narrowly escaped a chilly dip.

The water level was very high at this time of year, after the heat wave, accented by recent rain. A mid-thigh high rooster tail guarded the final log and the other side. As we sat and debated other strategies, the rain petered out, and gave way to a brilliant, blue, hope filled sky. Marty bravely tackled the crossing next, barefoot and pack-laden. He made it safely, after which we all followed suit. Cold feet! I'd recommend going barefoot, as it's nice to feel your way along the gnarls and unevenness. 

Me crossing the final logstacle.

By now it was 12:30pm and we'd lost quite a bit of time. But the weather was great. So we continued on the trail through the short forested section to the boulder field and first scree slope. Cairns lead a few ways through the boulder field but as long you head to the general left of the slope you'll eventually find the path that climbs windingly up the scree. Feet of lead in this section.

After an hour or so, we reached a trickling waterfall, at which we followed the trail up and left, bringing us to a short but steep step up through a shallow ledgey chimney. This was easily managed with packs on, as it quickly flattens out. The rappel through this section is optional – it starts a few metres lookers left of the climbing gully, in the next one over. There is a bolt, piton and cord. We opted to use the rope to get down here; better safe than sorry!

 

The waterfall. I think it’s a constant little trickle that’s glacier melt run-off.

Some switchbacks through green ledges decorated with delightful wildflowers leads you up to a rocky gully fixed with handlines. We were surprised to find this, as it’s not mentioned in the book or the ACC approach description document. No matter, it was smooth, the hardware and rope is in good condition. Exit climbers left from the gully then wrap around to the trail which continues right.

The gang coming up the gully with the fixed ropes.

 

The sky had clouded over with some light, non-threatening clouds at this point. Gullible is the hopeful!!! After more light scrambling over ledges and up a loose slope, we arrived at the first proper climbing pitch. Defined by a large corner, with, when we were there, a waterfall that passes down the inside left face of the large corner, the start of the climb is the trickiest but completely manageable in mountaineering boots. This is where our leader got lost, as it makes sense to continue up straight, but through steeper terrain. There was a detached block that could be stood on, which will position you 2m below the anchor. Whereas other resources say to cut hard climbers left once on the ledge, contouring behind a block and towards where the water is feeding from. Look up and you’ll see a lone bolt just before a grassy/dirty ledge. To the right of this is where the anchor is. This option is less enjoyable for the second.

First picture courtesy of Jeremy Pulsar from the Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies facebook group, in addition with my beautiful dot edits. Red is my recommended route, blue is the round-about way with the single bolt. Roughly. Second is from the anchor, looking down at Laurie leading up what would be the red route, standing on the same detached block.

 

In the distance, after ~45mins of more flowery steps and switchbacks, there will be a large steep cliff band with a dramatic corner far lookers left. The infamous chain pitch scales half of this wall. The clouds above looked a little more burdensome and dark as we approached the route. I dumped my pack, donned my rock shoes and began leading up. Admittedly, I thought the climbing was great fun. Solid moves on positive holds, spiced with a quirky mantling of a freestanding flake. That was until the rain started. I kept looking over my shoulder in fear, seeing the curtain of rain flow straight towards us. It was like trying to climb fast because a big monster was chasing me. Thrilling no doubt. It hit around halfway up the pitch, and once at the anchor, we all decided I should wait it out because we could see the light at the end of the (rain) tunnel. So there I sat, 5pm, in my sodden Proton LT, attached to a metal anchor, while lightning stuck around me. I couldn’t help but laugh, after it was over, at the fact that my first alpine rock lead was in a dang lightning storm. Anyways, we waited a while for the rock to dry up (which it did rapidly) and then sailed the traverse qpitch. Quite pleasant, protected by around 5 pitons short walk along the same band as the previous pitch takes you to a somewhat smooth runnel/gully marked by a cairn. The left side of this has a bolt to protect the trickiest move. I didn’t find any acceptable gear before or after this, however you cut right around a large outcrop so that acts as protection anyways.

An estimated line of each pitch; they are very obvious though so route-finding shouldn’t be an issue. Dotted is the walk between traverse and final pitch. Sweet shot of Phil and Laurie making the traverse pitch look smooth.

A short step over the lip, then it was on to the glacier. It was also about 8:30pm. Where the heck did the time go?! It was shocking (to me) how much exposed glacier ice there was, especially for early July. Marty was in front and found a few crevasses wide enough to fit him up to his hip. Also being so late did not help. Eventually we made it through the worst section and were contouring Mt Little, when the hut came into view. I was so relieved. Against what felt like so many odds we had made it. This is also my first ever ACC hut stay so it was more than luxurious to crawl into a proper bed that night, after a nice warm spaghetti dinner.

The day-by-day

The morning after our late arrival, we slept in until around 8am. We only ventured out onto Fay glacier at around 11am, en route to Mount Babel. Babel can be pronounced as ‘Babbel’ or ‘Baybel’ - it’s just the difference of American and British english. By doing this first, we also got to scope out the west ridge route of Mount Fay. Frankly it looked pretty poor. A part of the bergschrund looked as though it had recently collapsed, so there was no simple crossing. We didn’t go up close to really inspect it, but I would assume that to get onto the route, you would have to lower down into it, then climb/somehow get back out. And then there was the actual route. With no snow left on the slop it was bare ice and in our short passings by, there was a significant amount of rockfall. Needless to say, we opted to not do it. In the log book back at the hut, there is an epic recount of two blokes skiing one of the chutes off Fay, I believe the one in between the central ice bulge and the west ridge lines. Wild!

Green arrow marks the west ridge route on Fay. Close up of the hectic schrund.

Anyways, Babel went smoothly. There is a rough trail to the top but it’s really not difficult to navigate, just hug the ridge, then cut left, winding upwards, when it becomes too steep. Got rained on, after descending back onto the glacier.

Mount Babel on the left.

That afternoon we went up Mount Bowlen, which is the righthand peak when viewing the hut from Fay glacier. An impressive peak from down at the lake, it is only a half hour stroll from the hut. There is a pleasant trail that is found if you head up the first obviously travelled gully. Pick it up after a while on the left. Got rained on here too.

Route up Mt Bowlen as viewed from the hut balcony. 

Having the hut fully equipped with a propane stove is such a luxury. Fast snow melting and water curing, you can have more interesting meals than freeze-dried bags (no offence), and being able to wash the sunscreen off after the days makes for a more restful slumber. My partner and I had spaghetti, mac ’n’ cheese and a freeze-dried meal for dinners, wraps for lunch and oatmeal for brekky. The more I eat this oatmeal mix the less I like it. So globby. Must seize the opportunity to have (if ever so slightly) more lavish meals!

Also noteworthy, is 3/4 bump that is right beside 3/4 couloir. Gives great views of nearby peaks, the valley and the top of 3/4 couloir. Eep!

That evening, since being deterred from Fay, we ummed and ahhed about tomorrow’s objective. Allan was on the cards for a big day and big summit, but since we hadn’t planned for it, we had little info about it. The leftward contour across a rock band to reach the scramble seemed pretty intimidating. The next morning we woke up early and headed over to do Mount Perren. The snow climb up to the ridge still had perfect coverage. From there, the scramble section doesn’t take long at all. If you follow the ridge proper, you will encounter more difficult terrain, but there is a discernible trail that skirts the left below the ridge, where you’ll only come across a very short 4th class step. Fantastic view from this peak. Coming down the snow slope was where the most thrill was had; attempting to glissade for the first time. It was fast! And fun. With no real danger if we lost control, it was good practice for a quick self-arrest. 

Route to the summit of Perren, with the snow slope. Allan behind.

That evening we went up Mount Little. Route finding was somewhat challenging – take the time to investigate all potential ways and search for faint trails in dirt or rubble. That being mentioned, it is a loose scramble. I didn’t go all the way to the top, when a very crumbly section on the edge of a teeteringly steep drop off guarded the way. Phil continued past this point for 2 minutes more to the summit. 

Our approximate line up Mt. Little. Notorious Little looseness. 

Then it was home time. A clear morning made us confident maybe we wouldn’t get the storm that was in the forecast. The descent was straight forward, took around 5 hours to get down. Then after an Eddie burger for dinner, we sat in the park, beers, picnic blanket, slack-line set up, then we got hailed on.